Mentawai Islands

Why the Mentawais

Nowhere else packs this many world-class waves into this small an area. The swell arrives out of the Indian Ocean with nothing to slow it down, and the reef passes — Macaronis, Lance's Right, Rifles, the Playgrounds — break with a consistency that borders on absurd.

There are two ways to do it, and they are genuinely different trips:

• **Land camps** put you on one island, with boats out to whatever is working nearby. Cheaper, more sociable, and you get a base.Land camps put you on one island, with boats out to whatever is working nearby. Cheaper, more sociable, and you get a base.
• **Charter boats (liveaboards)** move to the swell. Expensive, but you surf uncrowded waves that land camps cannot reach.Charter boats (liveaboards) move to the swell. Expensive, but you surf uncrowded waves that land camps cannot reach.

Be realistic about ability. This is shallow coral reef, a long way from a hospital. Operators will happily quote you "all levels"; the waves will not. Confident intermediates and up.

When to go

• **Apr–Oct:** the season. Peak swell runs roughly June to September.Apr–Oct: the season. Peak swell runs roughly June to September.
• **Nov–Mar:** wetter, smaller, and most operators wind down.Nov–Mar: wetter, smaller, and most operators wind down.

Getting around

Fly to Padang, West Sumatra (via Jakarta or Kuala Lumpur), then a ferry or fast boat out to the islands — anywhere from three to twelve hours depending on where you're headed. Build in a buffer day each way; boats miss schedules.